Security in Mexico: on the coast and in the capital of the state of Oaxaca
The southern Mexican state of Oaxaca, its capital known for the best cuisine in the country, and its central valleys for mezcal production, artisanal villages and ruins, still gets a bad rap for alleged concerns of violence and security. In recent years, its pristine resorts like Huatulco and Puerto Escondido have been receiving the brunt of adverse media reports. All this despite the fact that, provided the necessary precautions are taken, tourists should feel even safer than in their cities and towns outside of Mexico.
Oaxaca is generally a safe state for tourists. Mexican citizens are vigilant and so should visitors. The former have been taught from a very young age, while the latter need some instruction.
Kidnapping. The bad guys seek the rescue of the rich. While they may not be that smart, they know that kidnapping a tourist is no guarantee of a great payday. So they kidnap those (mainly women and children) whose families reasonably assume that they have significant financial resources. Some people flaunt their wealth by driving Mercedes and wearing flashy gold jewelry. They and their family members are the targets, not you the visitor. These residents live in large houses in wealthy areas of the city. They are very successful retail and wholesale business owners. The owner of a well-known supply chain for building materials was kidnapped twice over the course of about 15 years. Presumably that target now has a 24/7 bodyguard.
My wife wanted to buy a Mini Cooper, the only small car that she really liked. She wanted a red one. We live in a semi-rural suburb of Oaxaca. Most of our neighbors are of fairly modest means. Why draw our attention? I suggested a gray Mini and have the dealer remove the two stripes it comes with. While the Mini logo remains, the car is now much more understated and more or less integrated. And although our house is large, it has a traditional construction and is practically hidden by large plants that bloom throughout the year. It seems modest compared to the modern houses that more recently have been built by a few neighbors; those who park their sleek black Audis SUVs in their three garages.
Stole. The 80-year-old upper-class mother of a Canadian friend visited Oaxaca. I met with her to advise her on what to do, where and when, and on safety. I suggested that he dress more casually. She replied that she always does when she travels, even though she was wearing designer clothes and expensive earrings and necklaces at the time. His partner and I looked at each other in disbelief.
If a point-and-shoot is enough, leave the camera with the $ 3,000 lens at home. Alternatively, when you walk through the markets, keep the camera and bag in a nondescript polyurethane bag that you can buy quite well statewide for 5-10 pesos. That’s what the locals wear when they go shopping at the markets. Sure, you’ll probably still look like a tourist, but you’ll be less likely to be a target of thieves than the next tourist to pass for the scoundrel.
Hear what the locals tell you. I advised a white American customer not to stroll through the Mercado Central de Abastos Oaxaca on Saturdays, the busiest market day, because thieves attack passersby, both Mexican and foreign, that day much more than others. A few days later I was talking to her and she told me: “I just went to Abastos on Saturday to orient myself when I need to take a bus another day.” The gold earrings were ripped from her ears.
When in markets, be especially careful in crowded areas or if groups of people, including women, seem too close to you. In a couple of weekly market towns near Oaxaca, swarms of women have been observed. You’re skimming, and the next thing you know, your wallet, purse, or passport is missing. Hold your camera and bag comfortably in front of you and leave your passport in your hotel room (but take your tourist card photos and passport photos page with you). Backpacks are easy targets too, so if necessary, keep them in front of you. For a day trip, carry only the amount of cash you may reasonably need and a credit card. You sure don’t need your New York driver’s license with you.
Assaults and worse. Bad things happen to good people all over the world, all the time, in their cities and towns of origin. Oaxaca, Huatulco, and Puerto Escondido are no different. There are urban areas notorious for muggings and robberies all over the world, and here it is no different. Typically, theft is the main motivation, so again, dress up and listen to what the residents are saying. Ask about going out after dark and if there are particular areas to avoid day or night. Some areas in and around Oaxaca City even have neighborhood watch groups to address recent streaks of robberies and robberies. Women and youngsters seem to be the targets, probably due to a perceived lack of physical strength, and first, where sexual predators lurk. For this, I suppose the type of clothing should be a consideration; the less someone considers you provocative, the less likely you are to run into trouble. Call me out of touch or sexist if you want, but some parts of the world are still pretty misogynistic, so heeding a little advice can go a long way toward avoiding trouble.
Epilogue. The state of Oaxaca is essentially safe for both residents and visitors; men, women and children. If it were not so, me and many others who live here but were born and raised outside of Mexico, we would not have chosen to uproot and move. For most of us it was not the climate or the cost of living, but rather the lifestyle, the multiplicity of rich cultural traditions, and security. But we all take reasonable precautions, no more and no less than in our countries of birth.
For visitors, just remember that those who have warned that Mexico is unsafe are likely people who have never visited the country and rely on tabloid media reports or paternalistic State Department warnings to form their opinions and provide material for your advice.