How to properly fix silk dyes with steam

There are many sites on the web with tips and advice on how to steam fix silk pieces that have been hand painted and there seems to be a lot of confusion as to exactly what this is. This article will walk you through the process of how to properly set silk dyes with steam so you don’t ruin your work.

When you’ve taken the time to create a beautiful work of art, the last thing you want is for it to be ruined by experimenting with methods to permanently fix dyes to silk. And let’s be honest, there are plenty of people offering tips and tricks with methods that just aren’t trustworthy enough.

I don’t know about you, but I prefer not to play Russian roulette every time I want to fix my work. I need to know that the fixation will be clean, reliable, and produce fabulous results, without having to worry about dripping water or fading.

The first thing to keep in mind when fixing with steam is that there are no grains of salt adhering to the fabric and that any colored gutta that you have used has been fixed with an iron from the back. I also recommend that you be careful not to steam silk that is crushed or full of folds, as these can get into the fabric and are difficult to remove.

You will need paper, ideally unprinted newspaper, to lay out and lay the silk. This will absorb any dyes that have bled out of the artwork during the steaming process. If you’re going to use newspaper, make sure it’s at least 6 weeks old, otherwise the print is likely to mark the silk. Definitely not my first choice. There are companies that sell ideal paper for this online, so take a look and see what you can find. Then one end of the paper is attached to a metal post with duct tape. Start laying your pieces of silk on the paper about 2 feet away from the post, being careful that they are not too close to the edge or touching each other. Keep them all at least a couple of inches apart from each other.

Then, starting with the stick in your hands, slowly roll the paper and silk together, forming a long sausage. At the other end, roll another 2 feet of empty paper to protect the silk. Secure the roll with tape.

To ensure proper steaming, this roll should be suspended in a steam bath for approximately 3 hours, depending on how thick it is. Ideally you would now hang it inside a professional silk steamer which would ensure your roll doesn’t touch the edges and stays safe from water droplets. The device is closed, turned on and the thermostat adjusted. It will safely and correctly vaporize your silk dyes and set them permanently.

If you don’t have access to a steam device, this is where things start to get complicated. You will need to roll up your artwork without the post and make a package that will fit inside a steaming pot that can be placed on top of your stove. Obviously, this is a lot of improvisation, as any large workpiece needs to be bent, potentially creating wrinkles and creases. There is also a danger of water droplets getting inside the package, which will ruin your work. For this reason, I don’t endorse home methods, but the choice is always up to you, the individual. I hear over and over again from people who have a hard time steaming silk dyes onto the plate.

If you’d like help steaming your silk paints professionally in a steam fixative, take a look at my website and blog. I hope to hear from you.