Florence Duomo – Santa Maria Del Fiore is steeped in history spanning 1600 years

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One can’t help but feel humbled and, frankly, dwarfed standing next to Florence’s Duomo with Brunelleschi’s dome rising boldly into the sky or next to Giotto’s bell tower from 1333. Imagine for a moment, what life was like before of the Duomo when an ancient Christian basilica stood on these grounds in the late 4th century when this colony of Rome, known as Florentia, was teeming with Roman inhabitants? Come with me to explore this Piazza del Duomo, which has been the religious center of Florence for more than 1600 years, and we will examine the monuments that stood the test of time, those that did not and discover the mysteries that lie beneath. . Did you know that one of these buildings still holds the world record for the largest brick and mortar dome that has come to define and dominate the skyline of this Renaissance city of Florence? Do you want to guess?

After a fabulous half-day tour of Fiesole, on the way to our hotel, we toured Florence’s magnificent and cavernous cathedral, Santa Maria del Fiore or more commonly known as the Duomo. Translated Santa Maria del Fiore means Holy Mary of the Flower, the flower being Christ Himself as the fruit of our salvation. Designed by Arnolfo Di Cambio, construction began in 1296 and was completed, without the dome, in 1348. It was not until 1436 that Brunelleschi’s “dome within a dome” was completed and finally topped off with its lantern 10 years later. The gilt copper ball that adorns the top of the lantern, which contains holy relics, was added in 1471. This marked the end of a construction period that spanned 170 years. Quite an amazing feat!

Truly a sight to behold in person, this titanic structure stretches 502 feet (153 meters) long, 295 feet (90 meters) at its widest point, and 90 meters from the ground to the top of the dome. Clad in green and pink marble framed by strips of white marble, the façade of this grand cathedral was not completed in the 15th century, but almost 400 years later by Emilio De Fabris. Look closely and you’ll see statues adorning the niches on the sides, Mother Mary enthroned with a flowered scepter above the front door, and various mosaics depicting scenes of Christ, Saint Mary, and Saint John the Baptist, local artisans and merchants, and other Prominent Florentine figures above the remaining doorways. Truly a stunning view from any angle and the perfect Kodak moment.

To this day, Brunelleschi’s dome remains the largest brick dome in the world and no image of Florence is complete without it. Only the Pantheon in Rome is bigger but it’s made of concrete so there’s no competition. Speaking of competitions, back in 1419, the city of Florence held one for the best dome design that would crown the basilica’s octagonal base. Brunelleschi, a local artist and architect, competed and won against Ghiberti, the artist to whom Brunelleschi lost in a previous competition for the bronze panels of the “Gates of Paradise”, the eastern doors of the Baptistery.

The competition specifically called for a dome design that spanned 140 feet (42 meters) and could not contain flying buttresses which were rejected by the Italians. With the encouragement of Cosimo de’ Medici, Brunelleschi presented his idea, a “dome within a dome” design that would require no flying buttresses and, surprisingly, not even scaffolding around the exterior. The concept was to build an inner dome made of lightweight materials that would then provide support for the construction of the outer shell made of more weather-resistant materials. Overall, this would be the first octagonal dome ever built and because the recipe for concrete had been lost since the Pantheon era, Brunelleschi would have to build his dome with bricks and mortar, hence the world record explanation. Today, you can climb the 463 steps and see this unique method of construction firsthand. Sounds daunting, yes, however the view of the surrounding Florence and Tuscany from the top of the dome is incredible and definitely worth every huff and puff upon arrival.

Compared to the highly ornate exterior of the cathedral, the interior is more reserved in its design and features frescoes painted by Florentine masters in the 14th and 15th centuries. Along the walls, you’ll discover frescoes by Paolo Uccello, Adrean del Castagno, a painting of Dante and his “Divine Comedy” by Domenico di Michelino, and sculptural portraits by Giotto and Brunelleschi. Later, in the 19th century, busts of Arnolfo di Cambio, the cathedral’s original designer, and Emilio De Fabris, the 19th-century exterior designer, were added. Adorning the interior walls of the dome, 295 feet high, is Vasari’s “Last Judgment,” which was ordered by Cosimo de’ Medici. Brace yourself, the painting is 295 feet away and neck strain is unavoidable, but it’s worth it. The artist, Vasari, was mentioned in my previous article on the Uffizi Gallery and is the same man who designed the “Vasari Corridor” that runs from the Uffizi Gallery to the Pitti Palace on the other side of the Arno. He suggested that he rent an audio guide for his tour as he tours the interior of the cathedral and examines the art. They are only three euros but they are worth each one.

To our surprise, after our audio tour concluded, we were exiting through the main doors when we noticed a staircase descending to a lower level just inside and to the left of the main cathedral doors, or to the right when coming from the front. it was our gateway and could be yours to the past, until the end of the 4th century and beyond. There was a nominal charge but it was worth it! But what was down here? Well, after the major renovation of the Duomo in 1966, the remains of an ancient Christian basilica were unearthed just 4 meters below the floor of the current Duomo and later identified as Santa Reparata, built in the late 4th and early 5th centuries in what was then known as the Roman colony of Florentia. Before construction of the current Duomo could begin, the city of Florence during the 13th century first had to demolish Santa Reparata or most of it due to its state of disrepair after standing for nearly 900 years. The population of Florence was outstripping the capacity of this ancient place of worship and the city wanted its own cathedral, more grandiose in design than its neighboring cities of Siena and Pisa. Thus the Duomo was born.

After descending and paying the admission fee, you enter this wonderful underground world. We couldn’t believe our eyes and were so amazed that we didn’t know anything about this place until we arrived. You can walk through the nave to the altar, examining the mosaic floor, the columns that used to support the ceiling, the still-intact ancient frescoes, the tombs, and other fascinating remnants of the ancient structure. Furthermore, the steps leading to its descent are actually the remains of a staircase leading to the choir of the old basilica. It is a fascinating journey into the past that I highly recommend you do.

For more than 1,600 years, the site of Santa Maria del Fiore and everything that came before it has been a wonder and fascination for all who visit it. It is a journey of the soul to the past and the present. When planning to go, don’t worry about getting there early in the morning when the lines are longest, wait until the afternoon, as long as the cathedral and bell tower remain open, and then visit. The lines may seem long, but not as long as in the morning and they move quickly. I urge everyone to include this in their itinerary when planning their visit to this Renaissance city.

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